Building A Sartorial Wardrobe From Scratch

Starting off in the world of menswear can be intimidating.

If you’re just getting into tailored clothes and want to test the waters, there’s a myriad of information out there that can easily lead you down a path you didn’t intend to go down. Fear of this can cause inertia, and we don’t want that.
With the million options that tailoring provides in the avenues of cloth, construction and so on, what would really come in handy is a definitive starting point in the form of a capsule wardrobe.
Just enough items to give you a different outfit, 7 days a week.
A mixture of office-appropriate wear, business casual and weekend fun.
Ideally, we want all of this to be somewhat interchangeable, and that’s what I’ve gone for here.

And thus, here’s my take on a capsule wardrobe;
Call it an Introduction to Menswear.

Note: this is to cover the bases only. It won’t cover winter-specific or summer-specific clothing. That can come later, get the basics sorted first.
This will not include shoes, either.


Essentials:

When building a wardrobe from scratch, you want to focus on versatility.
It’s up to you whether you want to include a suit, in this current era that favours business casual dress codes.
Separates might be more up your alley, but I’m including one suit in mine.
Simply because that’s what I’d like. I think everyone should own one suit.


Suiting:
One suit, mid grey. Two trousers.
Try to get a three-season fabric, to get the most possible wear from it.

Jacketing:
One navy blazer.
Like the suit, get a three-season fabric. Get contrasting buttons.
Depending on your style, you can use traditional gold buttons, or brown horn.
It’s up to you whether you buy single or double breasted. Both are equally versatile, in my opinion, so it largely falls down to your individual preference.

Trousers:
One pair of cream wool trousers. Flannel or fresco weave, depending on your climate.
Two pairs of classically cut, higher waisted cotton chinos. One in beige, one in grey.
One pair of selvedge denim jeans. Indigo or light wash – choose your preference. For maximum versatility, a lighter wash will cooperate better with the navy blazer than an indigo will.

Shirting:
Three cotton business shirts, in poplin or twill weave. One in plain white, one striped and one free choice. Wear these with your smartest outfits.
Two button-down shirts in oxford weave. One in light blue, one in yellow or pink. These will go with your chinos, jeans and possibly your suit / business trousers depending on the fabric choice of your suit.
One polo shirt, short or long sleeve. Choose a colour that complements your pants collection. Fabric can either be cotton pique or merino.
If you don’t like polo shirts, choose a fun shirt or rugby shirt instead.
One tee shirt. Plain or breton stripe (like mine).

Knitwear:
Optional: one or two sweaters. One in burgundy, one ivory cable knit sweater (I’m partial to cricket sweaters).

Ties and Accessories:
Optional: one brown or dark green knitted tie (silk, wool or cotton) , one navy silk repp stripe or regimental stripe tie (leave the shiny ones on the rack, get something more muted).
Optional: One plain white linen pocket square.


13 Items, How Many Combinations?

SamTalksStyle Classic Menswear Capsule Wardrobe

In the above graphic, I mind mapped 26 different combinations.
I didn’t get them all, either.
I stopped because it was getting too convoluted.

This didn’t include the optionals like knitwear or accessories, either.
If you add one necktie, you’ll get over 10 new combinations.
Adding knitwear is sure to considerably increase the possibilities, too.


Where To Buy Everything?

Figuring out the designs you want is one thing, but figuring out where to source quality versions of what you want is another thing entirely.
I’ll cover where to buy everything from new for this part.
Depending on your body type, you might get away with more or less RTW items in your wardrobe.
Though, I’d venture that it’s best to find a good made to measure operation for at least your suit, blazer and odd trousers.

For shirting, you may be fine with buying RTW and having it altered. Personally I haven’t found a reliable RTW brand available in Australia with collar dimensions that I like for every style. Charles Tyrwhitt are good value for dress shirts, but their OCBDs have tiny collars. Polo by Ralph Lauren is the same deal.
I’ve found that vintage Gant has good button down collar sizes, and a relaxed but flattering cut.
If you can’t find exactly what you want, consider going the MTM route.
Shirting isn’t particularly expensive via most MTMs.

For chinos, I’ve been wearing vintage ones. They’re not perfect but they’ve done the job, and I’ve bought them because of the higher rise.
I haven’t had experience with any current RTW brands enough to warrant a recommendation. Most of the ones available in Australia are too low in the rise for me. I’ve heard good things about brands such as Amfeast, Natalino and Bronson MFG, though Bronson’s unfortunately don’t go up to my waist size.
Vintage Polo RL chinos can be good value with a decently high rise.

Speaking of Bronson, for tees, I adore my breton tee from Bronson. I’ve written about it before, and the quality of it is fantastic for the price. It’s worn in really well and is one of my favourite wardrobe staples.
Another well priced option is the plain colour tees from the Uniqlo U range. They’re sturdy and have a similar feel to Bronson’s, though not quite as well made.

For denim, I’m currently exploring made to measure options (I have tried two now, Adelaide Denim in Indonesia, and Luxire in India) as I haven’t found a RTW brand with a high enough rise for myself (I need it due to weight loss).
I’m now in the early stages of experimenting with my own unique design.

However, there’s an incredible range of denim available in all sorts of washes out there.
I have two hard rules when it comes to shopping for denim:
a) no elastane.
b) buy selvedge if possible.
Outside of that, it’s up to you to find a cut that fits you. A lot of people like vintage Levi’s, but those unfortunately don’t work for my body.

For polo shirts, I mostly have classic fit Polo Ralph Lauren.
I like them in plain and pastel colours.


Concluding Thoughts

This isn’t a wardrobe to suit everyone’s tastes.
What it is, is a solid building block that includes colours and cuts that anyone can wear.
If you have a particular dislike for anything in this, or a strong preference for an alternative, feel free to modify it for your own ends.
Let this merely be your guide.

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Sam founded STS in 2019 to help his fellow man to dress (and smell) fantastic, and most importantly to enjoy it! He works as a fitter at the made to measure tailoring store Beg Your Pardon in Adelaide, South Australia.

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