At long last, I’ve taken delivery of my three piece.
After another bout with illness, I had to further delay collecting my suit as my measurements changed drastically yet again. However, last week I was finally able to call in for a final fitting and pickup.
You’ll notice that some parts of the suit are a little loose as I’m not back to normal weight yet.
A Quick Recap of Design Choices
I opted for a three piece suit with 3-roll-2 fronting, notched lapels, five button waistcoat and trousers with a single forward pleat.
The fabric choice was a house fabric, super 130’s wool in a fine herringbone weave. I chose horn buttons in a colour which I thought would play well with both black and brown shoes.
I decided to have the lighter grey contrast stitching for the buttonholes, in the thought that I’ll be able to wear conservative shirting and accessories and still have a dash of presence in the outfit.
I ordered a half lining, for extra breathability. This allows for me to wear it in warmer temperatures without overheating. The waistcoat was specified to have a plain coloured grey back rather than matching the lining, so that I can wear a patterned shirt with the suit and have the ability to remove the jacket without having two boldly clashing patterns across my back.
You’ll notice a drastic difference in the shape of the trousers, as Milap revealed to me that he had actually re-cut them in order to achieve the drape that I desired. I’m quite happy with the result. They’re extremely comfortable to wear and hold a nice crease.
I can never make up my mind whether I like my trousers to end kissing the top of the shoe, or with a break. I think in this case that ending the trouser just kissing the shoe was a good choice given the shorter length of the jacket. A classical break with a more contemporary styled jacket would have been a clash of worlds, but the end result here is harmonious.
A difference compared to the original trousers is notable in the side tab, which Milap has changed to a new pistol-shaped design for Knightsman. I quite like the shape and find it to be an aesthetically pleasing design detail.
The first outing for my suit occurred last weekend to a long-time friend’s wedding. I paired it with a white herringbone shirt in a larger scale, also custom made by Knightsman. Accessories were a Macclesfield styled tie from Hardy Amies, a vintage Pobeda Red 12 wristwatch and vintage cufflinks. Shoes were my Cheaney Kelmarsh brogues.
Fit and Proportions
The shoulders have a nice clean line to them, and there is some drape to the chest which is important to have for my body type. I like the width of the lapels.
Lengthwise, the jacket is a bit shorter than I would ordinarily wear and the button stance also feels a touch higher as a result. I did not specify a particular length at time of commission so this is reflective of the house style, a contemporary – but not drastically so – length.
The hacking pockets are also part of the house style. While this would be considered by some to be a strange choice for a formal suit – given the country-based origins of the idea – I’ve found that they look suitably smart with the flaps hidden inside the pocket. It also adds to the slimming effect of the jacket’s waist suppression, a welcome effect in my case.
I think that the flapped pockets may add some versatility for dressing the suit down. If I was to wear the suit sans waistcoat with the pocket flaps out, combined with a less formal shirt and tie this suit may also work nicely as a more casual ensemble. It’s something I’ll experiment with.
Keep your eyes peeled to find out…
That’s all for today!
Overall I am pleased with this result. One can never expect total perfection from a first iteration, but this one scores quite well in my book. I look forward to wearing it many more times.
What do you think of the new suit?
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