At long last, I’ve taken delivery of my three piece.
After another bout with illness, I had to further delay collecting my suit as my measurements changed drastically yet again. However, last week I was finally able to call in for a final fitting and pickup.
If you’d like to read about the journey so far, see part 1 and part 2 of this series.
A Quick Recap of Design Choices
I opted for a three piece suit with 3-roll-2 fronting, notched lapels, five button waistcoat and trousers with a single forward pleat.
The fabric choice was a house fabric, super 130’s wool in a fine herringbone weave. I chose horn buttons in a colour which I thought would play well with both black and brown shoes.
I decided to have the lighter grey contrast stitching for the buttonholes, in the thought that I’ll be able to wear conservative shirting and accessories and still have a dash of presence in the outfit. It ended up contrasting a lot more than I expected when laying some thread over the fabric swatch, and had I known the result would be this loud, I probably wouldn’t have done so. However, I’ll chalk that up as a lesson learned.
I ordered a half lining, for extra breathability. This allows for me to wear it in warmer temperatures without overheating. The waistcoat was specified to have a plain coloured grey back rather than matching the lining, so that I can wear a patterned shirt with the suit and have the ability to remove the jacket without having two boldly clashing patterns across my back.
Trousers
You’ll notice a drastic difference in the shape of the trousers, as Milap revealed to me that he had actually re-cut them in order to achieve the drape that I desired. I’m quite happy with the result. They’re fairly comfortable to wear and hold a nice crease.
I can never make up my mind whether I like my trousers to end kissing the top of the shoe, or with a break. I think in this case that ending the trouser just kissing the shoe was a good choice for versatility when it comes to wearing the suit as separates.
A difference compared to the original trousers is notable in the side tab, which Milap has changed to a new pistol-shaped design for Knightsman. I quite like the shape and find it to be an aesthetically pleasing design detail.
As you can see I’ve had to cinch the sides a bit. This will change when I return to normal weight.
First Wear
The first outing for my suit occurred last weekend to a long-time friend’s wedding. I paired it with a white herringbone shirt in a larger scale, also custom made by Knightsman. Accessories were a Macclesfield styled tie from Hardy Amies, a vintage Pobeda Red 12 wristwatch and vintage cufflinks. Shoes were my Cheaney Kelmarsh brogues.
A few of the lads.
Fit and Proportions
The shoulders have a nice clean line to them, and there is some drape to the chest which is important to have for my body type. I like the width of the lapels.
Lengthwise, the jacket shows a glaring issue – realistically it’s simply too short. I know that shorter jackets are a men’s fashion trend that has been dominant for a while, but the short length doesn’t work for my wider body type. Construction wise, it causes the skirting to flare out as there is not enough weight for it to drape around my hips.
I did not specify a particular length at time of commission so this is reflective of the house style. Looking at other photos of Knightsman’s work, all of their jackets appear to be similarly cropped.
The hacking pockets are also part of the house style. While this would be considered by some to be a strange choice for a formal suit – given the country-based origins of the idea – I’ve found that they do add to the slimming effect with the flaps hidden inside the pocket; though it does look odd wearing it as a three piece with the flaps present.
I think that the hacking pockets may add some versatility to combining the jacket with other separates. But realistically, I probably won’t wear this jacket. The short overall length coupled with the high button stance simply doesn’t flatter my physique, modern aesthetic or not. This means I don’t have to worry about the loudness of my choice of contrasting buttonhole stitching.
However, I’ll get some good use out of the waistcoat and trousers. When it comes time to wear them as a three piece, I’ll likely use a dark grey Canali jacket from my wardrobe to pair with them. It will look very smart.
What’s next?
Keep your eyes peeled to find out…
That’s all for today!
Overall I am pleased with 2/3 of the suit. The trousers are good enough, and the waistcoat is good. But the jacket is just not something that flatters my body.
What do you think of the new suit?
You can visit Knightsman’s website here.
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