Have you ever noticed that some jackets look better on you than others, even with the same measurements? Perhaps you’ve had a jacket at some point that has issues with tightness around the top buttoning point, even though the measurements say that everything should be correct. Or, a you’ve bought a regular length jacket off the rack that makes you look a bit short for some reason. Chances are that any of these issues – especially if they’ve arisen from a contemporary off the rack jacket – are caused by a button stance that is too high. Continue reading Jacket Button Stance: What Is It, and Why Is It Important?
See what happened at the first fitting for my Knightsman suit. Continue reading Knightsman Suit Commission Update
What was that thing? It was the king. The one thing that matters more than anything; the fabric, the construction, anything else.
Fit. Continue reading I Binned (Almost) My Entire Tailored Jacket Collection…
After contemplating the thought for some time – and saving up – I have finally commissioned my first tailor-made suit. In this post I will share my experience in the first step of the process with Knightsman and a few thoughts on stepping into the world of custom suits. Continue reading Commissioning my First Suit
The details can be just as instrumental in making a suit or jacket look great as the cut and fit; with unflattering details, it becomes harder to match the jacket with accessories and shoes. We have covered lapel and fronting, as well as the jacket construction. Now that you have the biggest parts in check, it is time to discuss the details! In this section of the guide we will cover rear vents, pockets, armholes and sleeve buttons. Continue reading Choosing a Suit Jacket, Pt. 3: The Details
Backpacks and other over the shoulder bags are very popular ways of carrying your things, thanks to the practical nature of them. They are a staple of young people’s accessories. The familiarity means both are popular choices among men entering the professional workforce. Unfortunately, this means they are often worn over suits and blazers; a sure-fire way to ruin the jacket quickly. Continue reading Tailored Jackets and Backpacks Do Not Mix
When looking at suits, jackets, trousers and overcoats these days, many made from pure worsted wool fabrics will likely boast a super number somewhere on the tags. You will find these numbers tend to start at 100 (you can actually go as low as a super , brands simply tend not to advertise the super number on anything lower than a super 100s), and going – in some rare cases – above 200. There is a misconception that a higher super number means higher quality; this is not the case! It simply corresponds to the fineness of the fabric. Continue reading Suit Fabrics: Understanding Super Numbers
It is a question rolling around in the heads of many a person. Men are no longer required to wear a suit (or even a blazer and slacks) for many office jobs now, so how come the notion of the suit and tailored clothing has stuck around? Why is it that bespoke tailoring is in fashion and the ‘dapper gentleman’ movement seems to be constantly growing? To find out, we can explore how attitudes toward suits have evolved over several generations and what those attitudes are today. Continue reading ‘Not Because I Have To, Because I Want To’: The Suit as a Form of Personal Expression
Welcome to part 2 of the STS Guide to Choosing a Suit Jacket. In the previous instalment, we covered the choices concerning single and double breasted jackets, as well as lapels. In this instalment, we round out that knowledge with styles of shoulder and overall cut. We will also talk about the canvas; the inside component that gives the jacket its structure. Continue reading Choosing a Suit Jacket, Pt. 2: The Construction
Whether you are looking to purchase a suit or a sport jacket, there are many variables to consider. In this series, we will cover all of these; in this opening instalment we will examine single and double breasted jackets (and their different options), in addition to different lapel styles and your jacket quarters. Continue reading Choosing Your Perfect Suit Jacket, Pt. 1: The Fronting (Buttons and Lapels)