See what happened at the first fitting for my Knightsman suit.
What was that thing? It was the king. The one thing that matters more than anything; the fabric, the construction, anything else. Fit.
The details can be just as instrumental in making a suit or jacket look great as the cut and fit; with unflattering details, it becomes harder to match the jacket with accessories and shoes. We have covered lapel and fronting, as well as the jacket construction. Now that you have the biggest parts in check, it is time to discuss the details! In this section of the guide we will cover rear vents, pockets, armholes and sleeve buttons.
In Choosing a Suit Jacket Pt. 2, I mentioned how jackets can be fused or canvassed. When talking about fused construction I briefly mentioned how in this method the inner and the outer are simply fused together using glue, and how the glue fails with age to create an unappealing bubbling effect. Today I will show what that looks like.
When looking at suits, jackets, trousers and overcoats these days, many made from pure worsted wool fabrics will likely boast a super number somewhere on the tags. You will find these numbers tend to start at 100 (you can actually go as low as a super , brands simply tend not to advertise the super number on anything lower than a super 100s), and going - in some rare cases - above 200. There is a misconception that a higher super number means higher quality; this is not the case! It simply corresponds to the fineness of the fabric.
It is a question rolling around in the heads of many a person. Men are no longer required to wear a suit (or even a blazer and slacks) for many office jobs now, so how come the notion of the suit and tailored clothing has stuck around? Why is it that bespoke tailoring is in fashion and the 'dapper gentleman' movement seems to be constantly growing? To find out, we can explore how attitudes toward suits have evolved over several generations and what those attitudes are today.
Welcome to part 2 of the STS Guide to Choosing a Suit Jacket. In the previous instalment, we covered the choices concerning single and double breasted jackets, as well as lapels. In this instalment, we round out that knowledge with styles of shoulder and overall cut. We will also talk about the canvas; the inside component that gives the jacket its structure.