Jacket Button Stance: What Is It, and Why Is It Important?

Have you ever noticed that some jackets look better on you than others, even with the same measurements? Perhaps you’ve had a jacket at some point that has issues with tightness around the top buttoning point, even though the measurements say that everything should be correct. Or, a you’ve bought a regular length jacket off the rack that makes you look a bit short for some reason. Chances are that any of these issues – especially if they’ve arisen from a contemporary off the rack jacket – are caused by a button stance that is too high. Continue reading Jacket Button Stance: What Is It, and Why Is It Important?

Choosing a Suit Jacket, Pt. 3: The Details

The details can be just as instrumental in making a suit or jacket look great as the cut and fit; with unflattering details, it becomes harder to match the jacket with accessories and shoes. We have covered lapel and fronting, as well as the jacket construction. Now that you have the biggest parts in check, it is time to discuss the details! In this section of the guide we will cover rear vents, pockets, armholes and sleeve buttons. Continue reading Choosing a Suit Jacket, Pt. 3: The Details

What Happens to Jackets with Fused Construction When They Age

In Choosing a Suit Jacket Pt. 2, I mentioned how jackets can be fused or canvassed. When talking about fused construction I briefly mentioned how in this method the inner and the outer are simply fused together using glue, and how the glue fails with age to create an unappealing bubbling effect. Today I will show what that looks like. Continue reading What Happens to Jackets with Fused Construction When They Age

Suit Fabrics: Understanding Super Numbers

When looking at suits, jackets, trousers and overcoats these days, many made from pure worsted wool fabrics will likely boast a super number somewhere on the tags. You will find these numbers tend to start at 100 (you can actually go as low as a super , brands simply tend not to advertise the super number on anything lower than a super 100s), and going – in some rare cases – above 200. There is a misconception that a higher super number means higher quality; this is not the case! It simply corresponds to the fineness of the fabric. Continue reading Suit Fabrics: Understanding Super Numbers

‘Not Because I Have To, Because I Want To’: The Suit as a Form of Personal Expression

It is a question rolling around in the heads of many a person. Men are no longer required to wear a suit (or even a blazer and slacks) for many office jobs now, so how come the notion of the suit and tailored clothing has stuck around? Why is it that bespoke tailoring is in fashion and the ‘dapper gentleman’ movement seems to be constantly growing? To find out, we can explore how attitudes toward suits have evolved over several generations and what those attitudes are today. Continue reading ‘Not Because I Have To, Because I Want To’: The Suit as a Form of Personal Expression