We recently had a client at work commission a jacket in this spectacular looking fabric.
Whenever I see a swatch that looks this wild, I’m always intrigued about what it would look like for a garment to be constructed from it.
This series of fabrics contained in the HS1916 bunch (Holland & Sherry made a few other colourways too) has an incredible visual texture to it, with a mix of varying threads used to weave it.
This one is the navy and tan version (click to see on the H&S site).
We constructed this jacket in our house style, a one button sport coat with barchetta pocket, dual vents, notch lapel and patch pockets.
A flap was added to the patch pockets in this case, alongside staggered sleeve buttons.
The fabric itself is composed of 60% linen, 32% cotton and 8% polyamide. It weighs 320g/10.5oz.
I wasn’t surprised by the rough hand of it, given the depth of texture.
It certainly needed a full lining despite being a summer jacket, and some of the taller fabric piles could be felt against the skin even through the lining.
If you’re considering commissioning a garment cut from this cloth, consider that factor if you’re sensitive or have a dislike for rough cloth sitting on your skin.
It’s the caveat for having the unmatched texture.
The cloth drapes well and makes up beautifully.
Its weave hides much of the outer stitching, to the point that our flapped patch pocket, which would usually be quite a statement, is made very subtle.
Pick stitching would be almost invisible on this cloth unless a heavier gauge thread was to be used.
The cloth has very little give, so a little bit of room in the fit would be desirable.
Styling wise, its fuzzy appearance makes it a great accompaniment to various shades of denim, or linens.
The white threads make it an easy companion to a white shirt, too.
I would recommend sticking to long sleeve shirts due to the roughness of the fabric coming through the lining.
If you’re in Adelaide and would like one of these, or something like it, come and see me at Beg Your Pardon.
SamTalksStyle 